North West
Guild
How to cut Meccano Pinions & Gears By André Théberge, Canada.
A quick and informative guide on how to cut Meccano pinions and spur gears. Click here for PDF information file.
Click Picture to enlarge PDF
Another super quick and informative guide on how to cut Meccano Helical gears. with this all Meccano Fixture. Click here for PDF information file.
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I have built a box with 5 forward/reversing switches (DPDT) each of which can be powered by 5 different PDUs or a sub-set thereof. E.g. I can have one PDU at 20v controlling two motors, 1 PDU at 4.5 controlling one and 2 further PDUs controlling different voltage - or any combination at all. I use jump leads to configure the box in any way I need. So, I can have a model with 3 M5s, an E15R and E20R or all MOs if I want... or just 5 M5s....
Click here for PDF information file.
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Large soft rotating Handle by Mike Fallows
A simple ideal to take the stain & fatigue out of hand tuning a Meccano model, which make the Meccano models more interesting for young children. Click here for Gif information file.
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In order to speed the assembly and replicate with precision the pentagon and hexagon faces I built templates of them with diagonal trusses and positioned on these templates bolt heads carrying glued in their hexagonal recesses, stems cut from segments of surplus Allen keys.
This is a very handy resource to be used when assembling several plane figures with identical dimensions. These stems hold the bolts in position upside down, functioning as several extra "hands". They allow the layers of washers, strips, brackets be positioned in place, permitting one to fasten a nut and tightened it, while the stem will not allow the bolt to turn. I had used it in the past assembling the faces of the 16 gondola' of a Ferris Wheel model.
I attach some pictures illustrating this resource on the PDF FILE which might be of use for others facing similar tasks.
Click here for PDF information file.
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Power supply terminals by Chris Shute
Here's a way of connecting a power supply to a model. I've acquired lots of these plastic narrow strips (part 260c), which are a cheap alternative to Elektrikit insulated parts. By using 5 mm spacers above and below, all five holes can be utilised, and their bolts remain electrically isolated. Coloured spacers can be used to identify positive and negative sides. As an alternative to the top nuts, you can use Collars by their threaded holes, which are more easily tightened by fingers. I often put crimped automotive connectors on the cable ends to prevent stray whiskers and keep things tidy.
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When you roll zinc narrow strips in a strip roller, they often kink around the holes, because the metal is quite thin. This happens especially on a tight radius.
To get round this, sandwich them between a pair of old flexible plates and roll all parts together. This results in a much smoother curve. I have even sandwiched them between standard strips, which worked well too but didn't seem to be absolutely necessary.
Rolling narrow Strips by Richard Payn.
Click here for details of ‘One Way Drive’
This is an all Meccano, ball raced front wheel drive hub. The following pictures in this PFD file explain the workings. Click for a PDF information File Part 1. Part 2. Both giving excellent build details.
Meccano ball raced front wheel hub for 4” Tyre by Richard Payn
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Photograph Techniques for Meccano Models.
A good photograph guide to read and practice. Click here for a PDF full information file.
First Click here for trial copy of the Software VIRTUALMEC and then when you have installed the software.
click here to download the file for the Strip Roller.
Other interesting and useful VIRTUALMEC files some (by unknown Authors) to download as follows:-
Decimal counters have long been considered a challenge in Meccano because of the lack of any part with obvious five-fold or ten-fold symmetry. John Westwood has suggested that the range should have been extended to include a 10 hole bush wheel, and a number of the replica parts manufacturers have obliged. However, it turns out there is a very effective way of building a decimal counter using only standard Binns Rd. parts. I first built decimal counters a few years ago for use on a differential analyzer for recording shaft rotations. A recent discussion on Spanner prompted me to think about this problem anew, and as often happens, I was able to come up with an improved design that uses fewer parts and is more pleasing in appearance.
Click here for a PDF full information file.
Click here for a VIRTUALMEC file.
Using Isomec Software all you have to do is:-
1. 'Stretch' (Coreldraw's terminology, not mine) horizontally 86.6%, just type it in.
2. 'Skew' vertically 30°. A few clicks on the mouse.
Bingo! There is your drawing - any drawing - in perfect isometric projection.
The other two projections are obtainable by rotating the above projection plus 120° and minus 120° Incidentally, when further work is to be done on the projection - as is nearly case - it is best to work from the Plus 120° (Top, Flat) view as any measurements, etc., can be done precisely by the computer operating in the vertical plane.
To recover a drawing:-
1. 'Skew' Minus 30° vertically.
2. 'Stretch' horizontally 115.473% ( This time, the decimals are necessary).
Simples!
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I have devised a gear train which has an output shaft in the same position as if a worm on the motor shaft was meshed with a 19t pinion above it, without using the worm gear.
The picture shows how this is achieved. The only gear you cannot see is a 15t pinion between the motor side plates which meshes with the 38t gear. the overall reduction is 22.8:1.
If the motor is mounted on its side in a 3.5" wide chassis, butted up against one edge, the output shaft will be along the centre line of the chassis.
E20R Reduction without using a Worm. by Richard Payn.
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ML605-1 Solid black rubber tyres, plastic wheel hub centre (Product Code 051320305)
From http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/wheels/path/castors-wheels
Remove the plastic hub with a screwdriver and build a hub from 2 x 4"circular plates which are firmly supported on the flat tyre wall rim beneath and are a perfect fit.
The circular plates are secured by 1½" bolts and are absolutely secure against the tyre wall even only using two bolts.
Alternative 1:- if you put plastic spacers onto the bolts the tyre sits firmly on the spacers.
Alternative 2:- you can replace a bolt space with a threaded boss and bolt in from either of the circular plates so only bolt heads are displayed.
A clean media was requested by Anthony Els, Johannesburg, South Africa. for use in either Mecanno cranes to represent Grain/Coal or a material that Meccano excavators model can literally drive over and or excavate, without corroding the parts or creating a hugh mess.
Andrew found the best thing was to use was Plastic pellets meant for injection moulding. It comes in lots of colours and pellet sizes. Having purchased some black I found that it works perfectly as shiny coal. Andrew suggested finding a local Injection Moulder and offer to buy a few pounds/kilos.
Tony Rednall found that wooden bead from a door screen is most suitable for his JCB digger machine.
Do you know any other suitable material?
Imitation "Digging" Stuff by Andrew Wells.
To light you model up, consider buying some 3mm LEDs complete with the associated plastic mounts. These LEDs fit perfectly into Meccano holes being 4mm on the outside diameter.
Click Picture to enlarge
Meccano Corners by Alan Partridge.
If you fit the angle girders together as shown in the illustration at each corner you will be able to construct a strong box frame with square corners.
Isomec Drawing req
Fitting LED's to Meccano models by Anon.
You MUST read this BEFORE handling Neodymium Magnets.
Danger of breaking or Chipping - The most common cause of broken magnets is when two magnets are released and allowed to collide together. A combination of massive acceleration and high forces will cause one or both magnets to chip or shatter.
Dangers for children - Ensure that children under 14 are not allowed to play with magnets and children over 14 are told about potential dangers of the magnets and supervised by an adult who has read and understood these warning.
If two or more small magnets are swallowed, they could attract each other through the walls of the intestines, this would cause major swelling, life threatening injuries and need surgery to remove them.
You must do everything possible to make sure children cannot eat these magnets.
Nipping - When magnets are brought close enough together they can have a surprising amount of power. Fingers are quickly caught between them which could cause a painful nip or blood blister. Do not place these magnets up your nose or around the ears as they have soft tissue that will compress as the magnets attract through the thickness of the tissue. The magnets will compress the tissue and as the magnets get closer together, they will steadily increase in force until they cannot any closer.
Magnetically sensitive items - Neodymium magnets are very much stronger than “ordinary” magnets. Keep a safe distant (50mm+) between the magnets and all objects that can be damaged by magnetism. These include mechanical watches, heart pacemakers, CRT monitors and televisions, credit cards, diskettes and other magnetically stored media.
Heart Pacemakers - The operation of heart pacemakers will be affected by the close proximity of a magnet. Magnets can set a pacemaker working in a way that is not suitable for the pacemaker user and might affect their health. This change will stop when the magnet is removed. Small magnets would need to be very close indeed.
Surface Plating, wearing & chipping - Neodymium Magnets are usually plated with three layers of protective plating. First layer of Nickel, then a layer of Copper and then a final layer of Nickel. This plating can wear away in the course normal use if it is sliding or impacting onto a steel surface. If the plating layers are worn away, then the magnet will be exposed to corrosion and since the magnets contain a high percentage of iron, they could rust.
Nickel Allergies - Neodymium magnets are nickel-plated. Nickel is a metal which can cause an allergic reaction in some people. Nickel allergies can be acquired through long-term contact with objects that release nickel. In most cases, these allergic reactions are triggered by nickel-containing jewellery (e.g., earrings or piercing, clips, rings or necklaces). As a precaution, avoid long-term contact with nickel-plated magnets (e.g., jewellery) and totally abstain from contact with nickel-plated materials if you already have a nickel allergy. How much or little it takes to trigger a nickel allergy is debatable, (Euro coins contain 25% nickel).
Effects on people - Million of people world wide wear Neodymium magnets to promote health and well being. You have been advised & warned.
Click here for a Document file PDF File
Safety Clutch By Dave Bradley.
By using two 50t Brass contrate gears with a 1" Pulley and a Tyre in between complete with a Compression spring, loading for required grip adjusted with Standard collar. It works very well. Go on give it try.
Pick Up Magnet by Edmundo Veiga Rio Brazil.
Use a small high powered magnet to pick up small parts like steel nuts and bolts, or to separate brass nuts from steel ones.
As the hard thing is to take apart the attracted parts from the magnet, I use a common trick that may be of interest to those who have not tried it. I wrap the magnet tightly with a clear polythene bag before use. when the small parts are adhered to the wrapped magnet. unwrap the plastic bag, and remove the magnet carefully, disconnecting all the picked parts, making them fall in the desired containers. The cylindrical powerful magnet can be obtained from a scrapped loudspeaker. The small one used in cars are of the most convenient size.
Scaling Model Plans by Gregg Webb.
An excellent tip is to use CorelDraw by Importing an image of your subject then enlarge it to your scale size. you can then set it to mark off lengths between points on the model pretty clearly. Cover the thing with them, then print with shrink to fit on A4. If needs be, repeated ad nauseam with sub assemblies.
Walnut as an Abrasive / Polisher.
Crushed walnut shell is a hard fibrous material used as a soft abrasive in many industries. It is widely used to polish and clean materials such as metal, glass, and plastics. It can be used on fragile parts of machinery without etching, scratching, or marking the cleaned areas. It can also be used for a fine polish for Brassware ,jewellery, watches, golf clubs, etc.
You can make your own walnut shell polish by finely crushing it in a grinder and sifting the shell "powder". Collect the fine powder sifted through a tea strainer or flour sifter and mix with soft beeswax or soap. Use this homemade polish on jewellery or other metal pieces. Experiment with the fineness of the powdered walnut shell and the amount mixed with the wax or soap.
A simple explanation of how this amazing one-part adhesive functions.
Everyone is familiar with epoxies and acrylic resins. They are two-part adhesives
that when the two parts are mixed a chemical reaction takes place that causes them
to harden. They're very strong because they form long complex molecules that resist
breaking and grab onto any microscope roughness in the surfaces they touch. One of
the parts is the resin and the other is the hardener.
Super glue is nothing more than the same type of two-part adhesive, only in its case the hardener is water. Even apparently dry surfaces have microscopic droplets of water adhering to them. When super glue comes in contact with these droplets they create the chemical reaction that causes the super glue to harden.
With this in mind, super glue should work best in humid areas and less well in very dry desert locations. Also, a wipe of both surfaces with a very slightly damp cloth may speed the adhesive's setting. Another idea would be to "huff" on the pieces as if they were a mirror you wanted to fog. This also explains why putting extra super glue on a surface doesn't help. Until it can absorb enough water vapor from the air it'll never harden. In fact, as it starts to harden the surface of the exposed blob of super glue will form a shell that inhibits water vapor from penetrating deeper so the hardening process will grind to a stop.
Why does super glue stick so well to skin? First, under a microscope skin is an adhesive's dream. It's full of large, medium, small and microscopic grooves and pores that provide the perfect type of roughness for glues to grab. Second, the tissues are saturated with water so the super glue can soak in as deep as it wants and still find water to cause the hardening reaction.
The super glue that doctors use is different than the type available in hardware stores. Surgical super glue contains types of alcohols that are less toxic to human tissue. The type sold in stores use ethyl of methyl alcohols that can kill cells.
How Super Glue Works by Mike Fallows
The following tips have been culled by Peter from all over the place, and have been used and found to work for him.
1. When spray painting Meccano parts, lay them out on an old cardboard box from the local supermarket and spray away. The cardboard absorbs excess paint and can be discarded when choked with paint.
2. Use Nylon sheathed stainless steel fishing trace for wire line for clocks etc.
3. Use Nylon sheathed stainless steel fishing trace inside spring cord for bowden cables.
4. A quick trick to cure the loose boss syndrome in Meccano parts, take a bottle of "Loctite Nutlock Wick in" and put a very small drop alongside the boss. It will "wick-in" and permanently cure the problem.
Some useful Tips by Peter King.
The square nut holder /starter was built by me, milling a 1/4" wide channel in brass bar, lined with a glued magnetic rubber sheet that holds the nuts in place.
I needed a quick change gear mechanism for a new Meccanograph machine I am developing and just by chance hit on the following Spring loaded latch device. The mock up shown in the pictures is for a three position change but could be extended to control more gear changes as required.
Spring loaded chain tensioner. By André Théberge, Canada.
This Is an interesting chain tension device, I have used this method on my 3 axis milling machine, to put a uniform tension on the chain, reduce backlash and achieve displacement of 22 thousandth of an inch.
There are two chain tensioners, one on each side of the milling machine. You do not see them well on the video, but they are responsible for the Y movement of the wood plank.
I have a video on You tube of the machine at work. Click here to view.
Various home made tools for Meccano by Edmundo Veiga, Rio, Brazil
1. An inverted socket wrench with a 1/4” hexagon bar glued into it, and used in a power screw driver to drive square Meccano nuts. A 1/4” hexagonal flexible extension rod will enable you to reach deeper into the model. If the socket is a little large on diameter turn it down making it a slim to fit into tight places.
2. Turned taper Pins in brass to help align holes of joined parts.
3. Alligator clips used to hold parts temporary, prior to bolting.
4. Special Grub Screw Driver.
5. Various tools adapted to suit Meccano assembly.
See Tip number 103 and Tip number 138 for Edmundo magnetic nut holders.
Click Pictures to enlarge
Walnut Shells
A Thread comparison charts is available as a ‘wipe clean’ A4 Laminate Workshop Poster for £2.50 plus 50p postage. All proceeds to NWMG club funds. Click here for preveiw.
New Thread Comparison Chart by MNF.
Universal Joint by Terry Pettitt.
Click Pictures to enlarge
This construction is fairly clear, the small plastic spacers part no 38b come from one of the recent small sets.
The axle protrudes about 0.4 inches from the boss of the flanged wheel and locates just within the boss of the slide piece.
The joint works quite smoothly up to an angle of 40 deg.
Graham Jost find It works! Perfectly well, actually, and better without the axle-into-boss arrangement, simply because no fine adjustment is required here. (see Picture 3)
I did wonder whether there would be any problem under load, as Terry's scheme neatly circumvents any such possibility, but I can't see it. The drive is always from two opposite bolts, which should therefore always be exerting pure torque loading into the Eye Piece. You can even see the end of the Flanged Wheel axle at left, proving that it is not engaged in the boss of the eye Piece!
And thanks again for VirtualMec-cing it. There we are, a new verb for the Virtualmec.
Drawing by Edmundo Veiga.
This part may be of interest to some who are (like me) happy to use Meccano compatible parts to extend the engineering capability of the system. The CV joints runs smoothly under load and at speed, up to about +/- 25 degrees and has ~1/4" longitudinal movement. Length is 1 1/16". Click here for detail drawing of the two parts.
See attached photo of a hub I built up to check clearances, angles etc. The ball joint supports are represented by short threaded coupling. An extra washer is needed between each and the backplate to get the CV joint pivot point precisely aligned with the ball joints.
Added tip by André Théberge, It works, I built one using 0.125 in balls.
Making jigs to drill the holes and having all the holes on the coupling and the pot perfectly aligned (at 90 degrees) is crucial.
To hold the balls in place during assembly, I used a bit of axle grease in the dimples.
I have made several of those CV (or UJ) with jigs that I built this week-end. I thought of sharing the documentation on how to make the
jigs, then the parts, I realize there are more ways to 'skin a cat', so if anybody has a better way to produce these UJ in large quantities, please fell free to share. It takes about one hour to make 2 complete UJ, at a regular pace, using the jigs.
Doing more UJs at in one shot will certainly brings the average time down from 30 minutes to less.... More info on the production time to follow after I produce a dozen or so.
Building the jigs took about one complete morning. The enclosed Word file explains the process.
The attach photos show the jigs, made of steel, one side view and one top view. The next e-mail will show the finished product, a UJ being tested in a model and one opened-up.
Hope you like it.
Rotary Rod Guiding mechanism by Mike Fallows.
I have built two simple rotary rod guides into the sliding framework, that support the Designing table of a Meccanograph machine. This give’s a smooth an even running action for the Design table. ( Photo shows underside of framework).
Click here for full build details.
Click to enlarge
Click Pictures to enlarge
Loctite 243 is strong stuff for keeping screws in place. If all you want is just a little help, a dab of regular pva wood glue does a good light duty job and its cheaper.
Tensioning Chain in a Meccano model can be tricky. First off, ensure all chain is exactly the same. Either buy a single new length, or make and use a jig to make each link exactly the same length (laborious).
To add to troubles, Meccano Chain tends to stretch if you try to make a tight fitting loop. An initial snug fit may derail later.
When accuracy and repeatability in a mechanism are important, a tensioner is required.
In the version here, the position of the jockey, as well as the spring force can both be adjusted independently to resolve both chain slack and uneven running problems when using mixed chain.
Several 2" Perforated Strips space Coupling ‘A’ away from a Flat Plate. Two Axle Rods support Coupling ‘B’. Grub Screws in the Coupling ‘A’ allow position of Coupling ‘B’ to be adjusted.
A Pivot Bolt (head against the Flat Plate) is passed through Coupling ‘B’ (free to rotate) and locked to a Wheel disc. The latter is free to rotate. A loose 14t Sprocket is supported on a Pivot Bolt that is locked to the Wheel Disc with 2 Nuts.
An alternative Jockey is a Small Bush Wheel. A dome head Bolt (important for clearance) pivots a 1" Narrow Strip on the Wheel Disc.
A Shouldered Bolt pivots the Narrow Strip on a Collar that is free to slide (a linear-to-rotational arrangement). Suitable washers provide required clearances. The Aero Collar next to Coupling ‘A’ enables the adjustment of spring force. Note that the 28t Sprockets are about 1" away from the Flat Plate. If you want these to remain closer to the Flat Plate, the tensioner arrangement can probably be reversed and mounted "over" the chain (spaced away from the Flat Plate approximate. 1"). Click here for PDF file.
Click Pictures to enlarge
Added tip by André Théberge, It works, I built one using 0.125 in balls.
Making jigs to drill the holes and having all the holes on the coupling and the pot perfectly aligned (at 90 degrees) is crucial.
To hold the balls in place during assembly, I used a bit of axle grease in the dimples.
I have made several of those CV (or UJ) with jigs that I built this week-end. I thought of sharing the documentation on how to make the
jigs, then the parts, I realize there are more ways to 'skin a cat', so if anybody has a better way to produce these UJ in large quantities, please fell free to share. It takes about one hour to make 2 complete UJ, at a regular pace, using the jigs.
Doing more UJs at in one shot will certainly brings the average time down from 30 minutes to less.... More info on the production time to follow after I produce a dozen or so.
Building the jigs took about one complete morning. Click here for the PDF file explaining the process.
The photos show the finished product, a UJ being tested in a model, the next showing the UJ opened-up and finally the jigs, made of steel, one side view and one top view.
Fifty Secret Single Ingredient Formulas some for Meccano.
Click NWMG Logo for PDF file
A clever way to install the small black Meccano Motors, hanging from the driven shaft. This compact solution is very unique. Click here for PDF file
Small Magnets -Health & Safety Information by Mike Fallows.
The ‘Umble Flat Trunnion by Nick Rodgers.
I have been making the Double Bracket illustrated in the recent International Meccanoman’s Magazine for a number of years. Including the Corner Brackets when I get short of 1” and 1.1/2” Corner Brackets. Also I produce Left & right hand, Right angle Brackets from the trunnions. These brackets save the use of a lot of parts and are the sort of item that Calais should be producing.
A Simple Roller Bearing by Ivor Ellard
Here is a really simple roller bearing, Parts List as follows:-
2 - Wheel Disc
2 - 9h Narrow Strips. ( Rolled to suit)
8 - Small Rubber Tyres.
8 - Plastic Pulley.
8 - Bolt x 9/16” Lg.
8 - Std Washers.
16 - Square Nuts.
1 - Axle Rod (Length to suit application).
2 - Std Collars
Tips No 158 & 159 have been reproduced with the kind permission of Nick Rodgers of the Runnymede Meccano Guild.
A Linear Actuator by Anthony Els
A linear Actuator for small models can be constructed inexpensively. An output shaft is trapped between a Rubber Collar and some Plastic Spacers that can roll freely.
When the input axle is rotated, the output shaft moves linearly under friction. Experiment with marginally oxdised Axle rods or even Threaded Rod for improved traction. A combination of the three Rubber Grommets (two mounted on short rods connectors) may improve grip and more effectively retain the driven Axle Rod in it's last position.
5.¼” Gear Wheel or Track Wheel.
Two examples illustrating the unorthodox use of Meccano Crawler Track. The right hand shows the Track sandwiched with the tracks plates outwards, between two hubs Discs to give a tyred road wheel appearance suitable for models such as Traction Engines; The left shows the Track sandwiched, with the links inwards, to produce a large diameter gear wheel.
Pictures by Pat bedford Meccanopedia
All as described in Junior Meccano Engineer Volume 8 .
Click Pictures to enlarge
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